This relatively new neighborhood cheese shop might look small at first, but Luc Gendron and Cristel Henssen keep some 100 cheeses on hand that are carefully selected to please and surprise the most discerning palates. Aside from the specialty cheeses ones might expect to find in very good cheese shops – such as Guinness Cheddar or the cantaloupe-like Mimolette – Fromagerie Copette & Cie also carries a wide selection of hard-to-find artisanal Quebec cheeses that have won a number of international competitions. 

With such a tantalizing variety to choose from, it was very hard to stay focused and on budget, so we asked shop owner Gendron to help us pick four interesting and underrated regional cheeses that we could serve as an appetizer course for a party of six, all the while staying within a $25 budget. These were his picks totaling $24.90 for an average serving of 85g per person: 

Le 14 Arpents. This soft cheese produced by Fromagerie Médard in Quebec’s Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean region is creamy yet strong on flavor with slight hints of hazelnut. It is made from the milk of Brown Swiss cows and is named after the 14-acre road that borders the farm it is made on. Cost: $5.14 for 120g. 

Le Sabot de Blanchette. This creamy goat cheese is made in the traditional Swiss Normandy style but is produced on a farm in Saint Roch-de-l’Achigan, Quebec. Its natural rind is speckled with blue mold that is unique to its production and adds to its character. This cheese is low in acid, and a great accompaniment for light dry white wines or ales. Cost: $7.99 for 100g. 

El Niño. This cheese joined Quebec’s artisanal scene shortly after the provincial government re-raised concerns over unpasteurized (raw milk) cheeses earlier this year. The Fromagerie Des Cantons in Farnham, Quebec felt it would take a big wind to blow this recurring controversy away, and thus named this cheese after these tempestuous trade winds in the south Pacific. This semi-hard cheese uses Jersey cow milk (most commonly used in the production of milk chocolate), and is similar in style to Saint-Nectaire and Reblochon cheeses. The version of this cheese we picked up is extra special, as it’s soaked in a red wine bath for 30 days that lends a purple hue to its rind and adds the taste of wine to every bite. Cost: $5.92 for 130g. 

Le 1608. This cheese from the Laiterie Charlevoix in Charlevoix, Quebec uses Canadian cow milk to produce a firm cheese that tastes farm fresh and has a slight hint of green apples to it. The cows used to make this cheese were first introduced to Canada in 1608 and reached 500,000 in number by the early 1900s. Unfortunately, farmers turned to other breeds that were more widely available, and this cow’s population dwindled down to the 500 that remain today. The farm behind this product is dedicated to preventing their extinction and keeping the unique taste of this cheese alive. Shop owner Gendron says this cheese is his favorite for making a more grown-up version of traditional grilled cheese sandwiches. Cost: $5.85 for 170g. 

No cheese plate is complete without some accompaniments – such as crackers, sliced baguette and grapes. Gendron suggests the addition of almonds, raisins, dried cranberries and apricots, and says he once served a cheese plate with flower-based artisanal jams and jellies made from lavender, violets, and pansies as an accompaniment. 

If you are looking for a cheese plate for your party, this fromagerie can also prepare one for you (complete with signs that describe each cheese and all the accompaniments) that is presented on a reusable serving plate you can keep. What's more, they only charge a nominal $5 fee for this service.

And if anyone at your party dislikes eating the rinds, don’t throw them out – the rinds, not your guests – though I must confess I have been tempted to show some extremely picky eaters the door. Gendron suggests storing unused rinds in an airtight bag in your freezer (to stop the aging process), and grating them as needed to add a bit of cheesy zing to sauces or quiches. 

Fromagerie Copette & Cie is located at 4650 Wellington in Verdun. Please call 514-761-2727 for more information.